Mesh count is a very important factor to be considered when setting up a job to screen print. The mesh count or number refers to the number of threads per inch. There is also a measurement for the diameter of the thread which also can be necessary to consider.

Here are a couple of videos that deal with mesh count and mesh choices:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CNAWSaf8mdQ

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kq9FXZ0Tmmg

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JNLTHNpNtzI

This article will give you a complete rundown on mesh counts, nomenclature and European to US conversions: http://catspitproductionsllc.com/screen ... sions.html

These articles will also help with this phase of the process:

http://catspitproductionsllc.com/highmeshcounts.html

http://catspitproductionsllc.com/thinscreenmesh.html

What mesh count do you use for printing white ink on dark garments? What mesh count do you use for halftone printing of 35lpi or higher? Do you have a favorite mesh count that you use for different types of print jobs? Is there a particular brand of mesh or pre-stretched screen you prefer and would like to recommend? What are your suggestions for buying mesh counts for people who are looking to know what mesh counts they should keep in shop?

This video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qW8XidoSv2w
Is set to Private and I can't see it.

Any chance of making it viewable please?

Is there a Mesh Use Guide available at all please?
By which I mean say, for halftones use 230. For spot colour plain text use 110.

The reason for asking is my little kit camea with 110 (43T) screen, My wate rbased Permaset ink has arrived and I wait to take delivery of some rhino stencil stuff.

For my first screen, I want to try out a single colour halftone, but I know understand my 43T won't be any good for that.
The second thing I want to try is a white base coat, called by the permaset people "First Down" for dark t-shirts so that I can then see if I can airbrush on that base coat and I am hoping that my 43T screen will be ok for it.

If not then, what the heck is my 43T (110) screen used for?

Please.

If I understand correctly, you can use your 110 (43T) for spot color or under base.

Thanks,
I was concerned that mesh count might change because I'm going to use permaset inks.

Hmmm, yes if you are using water based inks and they are thinner in comparison to the plastisol then for and under base you might try a 156 or 160 mesh and a 195 for the colors that will print on top of that. There is no set guidance chart for choosing mesh counts because many things can factor in to choosing the mesh count. One of which is ink thickness.

Generally speaking you want the under base to be smooth and it only needs to fill the knit and provide a base coat. You won’t print this white layer like you would if it were a regular spot color white printer. In fact you may need a white highlight printer to come back in and hit the areas of white on the under base that will end up being white in the design.

If you are experimenting with printing a white print and them air brushing it then you may want to print that like it were a white spot color print.

Sorry Boyd I thought I replied to this:

This video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qW8XidoSv2w
Is set to Private and I can't see it.

Any chance of making it viewable please?

That was an old video featuring a vendor who is no longer with us try this one instead:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kq9FXZ0Tmmg

Here is a general guide chart that I would follow with extreme caution for working with plastisol inks:

Use a 30 mesh count for printing glitter inks. Always check with the manufacturer of the ink about this.

Use an 85 mesh count for athletic printing, opaque ink deposits, thick puff ink, and some shimmer inks.

Use a 110 mesh count for heavy coverage on dark shirts, solid under base prints, puff, metallic, some shimmer inks, and for certain transfer printing.

Use a 155 mesh count for general printing on white & dark shirts, prints on dark nylon jackets, and silver shimmer ink, or over printing on an under base on dark shirts.

Use a 195 mesh count for multi-color printing on light shirts, light colored nylon jackets or over printing on an under base on dark shirts.

Use a 230 mesh count for detailed multi-color printing on light shirts, light nylon jackets, or over printing on an under base on dark shirts.

Use a 305 to 355 mesh count for process color on light shirts, or for overprinting a halftone on a white under base on dark shirts.

With water based this may be different due to the thinner water based inks. Generally speaking you will print with lower mesh counts with plastisol inks and higher mesh counts for water based inks because they tend to be much thinner than plastisol.

Ah, I forgot about old stuff, sorry.

No problem, I thought I posted a reply to that old video already and I guess it slipped by me

Or maybe I private messaged you but eihter way I forgot to fix that. It is now.

I'm very much still confused on choosing a mesh count. Here's my design, what mesh count would I use to get the best looking results. Thank you.

I would use a 156 for that design, maybe a 200. Black ink is usually pretty thin and should pass through the mesh easily.