white plastisol ink

[harpo103]

Hey! Is there any white plastisol ink in the known universe, to be used on black shirts, which does not require flashing while printing? You know,the PRINT-FLASH-PRINT thing? Is there ANY white ink which only needs to be cured after printing? I guess,THE MOST opaque white ink is what I'm looking for.Thanks.

[Shamax]

I guess it depends on just how opaque or how thick of an ink deposit you're aiming for. This past week I printed some canvas patches with the plastisol white that Jonathan sells in the Catspit store through a 230 mesh by just doing a double-hit (no flash in between) and got great coverage! Perhaps you can get away with a double-hit like that instead of a print-flash-print? Other than that, there aren't any particular brands I can recommend personally.

[drew]

It can really depend on your stencil thickness and screen mesh count. The thicker the stencil the more ink you will put down. You can also try to do as Shamax said and flood the screen, print, flood and print again without a flash in between prints. I've done that many times but I wouldn't try it on a design with much detail.

[harpo103]

Thanks. The detail won't be too fine. I will mostly use 110 mesh. MAYBE 156 on occasion. MOSTLY 110.

[Catspit Productions]

Try some Triangle Phoenix White with proper off contact and a 110/80 or 125/70 mesh with a 60 durometer squeegee. Tight mesh! You’ll want to do a firm 1st stroke and then the second print stroke should be soft but enough pressure to clear the ink out of the mesh as it lifts up behind the squeegee.







But if you're a dedicated printer you should be able to do it without flashing with any half way decent white ink. It's more about the set up honestly.

[sunshinesusan]

I have been having so much trouble with this one small order requiring a high contrast white print on black. The black of the shirt keeps creeping into the design making it look gray in spots. I've already replaced this customers 36 shirt order once. She just reordered 10 more saying the remaining shirts she did not sell last Winter were doing the same thing as the first group that I already replaced. I changed inks ( I went back to Union Ink instead of the crap from Victory Factory I ordered to save time). I still had to print, flash, print! I'm still not sure these aren't going to end up doing the same thing! What the heck am I doing wrong? I haven't checked to see if my infared dryer unit was not heating consistently all over. could it be my shirt platen? They are all in need of replacement. I don't know. Any suggestions?

[Catspit Productions]

Sounds like dye migration. Are these 50/50 poly cotton shirts or are they 100% poly?

If so you may be experiencing dye migration:



This article should help out too:

http://www.catspitproductionsllc.com/dyemigration.html

[Leadfoot]

I have gotten really decent results with Excalibur Arctic white trying a one time print but still had to give it a quick flash and second pass of ink to get a quality print I was happy with. The key is though, as mentioned, it all depends on the stencil thickness and how much ink you press through before you make your print stroke. White ink is a bear and honestly I can't see myself doing white on black without P/F/P, the print quality is just not there with one pass, even with a thicker stencil. Maybe I am just a perfectionist but it drives me nuts when I see brand new printed shirts with white ink where they obviously only did one pass and the shirt color is bleeding through...strikes me as cheap.