Hey guys, I am really a NEWBIE, trying to determine what mesh count I should be using for the 2 color job. Any help, would certain be appreciated.

I think you could do this on something like a 125/130. Definitely a 156 would do it but you want to try to use the most open mesh count for plastisol inks especially for dark garments. Water based inks you might use a 195/200 or even a 230 if the ink is very thin.

I would run this on my 125, 70 mic screens. It’s a thin mesh that has bigger mesh openings than a 110 with more threads per inch. That way you can get great detail and still have excellent ink flow. I would run that screen on a light blue too. It appears the shirt would be light blue, yes?

Personally, I'd use a 156 or higher for the black ink. Won't lay as much ink, resulting in a softer hand while maintaining good coverage. Black is great ink to work with

Yes, Jon tthe shirt color is "Sapphire" blue. Thanks for the info guys....

I'm still a novice, and I don't know a whole lot about mesh counts.. I'm going to be screen printing this image for my band. Probably going to be doing this on an 11"x 17" film positive .. not sure what mesh counts to use for yellow, and magenta. And also what durometer squeegee should i use on both colors. Thanks!

I would use a 200 for the yellow and magenta if your using plastisol. I don't use water base but that type of ink usually needs higher mesh than plastisol, so probably 230. If your going to print on black shirts, you will need a white underbase unless you have high opacity inks. I would use a 156 for the underbase with plastisol white. I'm not extremely experienced yet so hopefully more ppl will chime in. Lol.

If using plastisol and HO inks, I'd go 156 or even 110. 156 is my best friend most of the time. Doesn't look like you have small dots so either would probably work. If standard plastisol then 156 underbase and 200 sounds good like Drew said. The goal is to not lay a lot of ink so it doesn't feel rubbery. Experiment a little. Hit the underbase twice (flood/stroke/flood stroke) with the first pass really embedding the fibers with white ink with no flash and see if it's opaque enough to print on top of. If not, try a h/f/h. Maybe add a little softhand additive if you do an underbase.

Excellent replies here. I’ll throw in my 2 cents worth. I don’t see much detail that would be noticed if lost honestly. It’s the type of design that has some “detail” in the shapes but it is such that will not suffer much if we run it on say a 125 or 130 mesh. You should get most if not all of the lines and slivers in the faces and text. If you lose anything in the text no one will know but you and it’s probably the same for the faces.

The reason I suggest this is to try to keep you on a lower mesh count when possible especially when printing colors on dark garments if that is the case. You can use a white under base if you like or you can use high opacity yellow and a high opacity red to match.

However if you’re using process inks on lighter garments then higher mesh counts may be used.

With most plastisol ink I will often push things by attempting to burn a design on the most open mesh I can. If it does not work out I bump up the mesh count.

Thanks for the response guys! The topic on this forum is very helpful! You guys rock! Once I start the work, i'll let you know what happens!

Hey thanks guys, it worked! Sorry it took a while for me to get back I wanted to show you the results of my T-shirts. Unfortunately the women's T-shirts didn't come out as good they are much more lighter material than the men's are is that a common thing for the ink to not take to the shirt?