Screen Tension and Quality-Advice Needed

[Leadfoot]

So I buy my screens from a particular company and have had great success with them. They are always tight but not too tight and seem to be very beneficial to the quality of my printing/ They tell me that the 156 mesh screens I get are 25-30 newtons in tension.

I need to get a bunch of frames re-meshed and have someone locally that does that. The first time I had the screens done there they were very loose, meaning they had a lot of flex in them. My guess would be the tension was maybe 15 newtons, maybe 20 but WAY off from what I was used to and the prints I did were not terrible but the screens also didn't seem to hold up as well. When I asked the local guy about getting them to 25-30 newtons and that my current suppliers screens last for several uses this was his response:

"we are not able to get screens that tight, tension has little to do with the life of a screen. Proper flection is also necessary in hand pulled printing."

He way be correct on the fact that the tension does not affect the life of a screen, that is probably more toward the adhesive, etc. Another thing he does is use adhesive and staples all around the wood screen. The adhesive was significantly weaker than what my supplier uses because when I took the mesh out of the ones that would not wash out they pulled right off with little to no fight. The others take a pretty good tug if it comes off at all.

Thoughts and opinions on this? The only benefit to going local, besides supporting a local guy, is I can get them pretty quickly, there is not much of any of a price benefit.

[Catspit Productions]

Alright from what you told us here this is my humble opinion.

I don’t think all the information you’re getting is dead on. First most metal screens that have 20 Newtons tension when you get them are what we would call excellent. Very rarely will you actually get a metal screen with more than 20 Newtons tension. Roller frames will hold much higher tensions than metal or wood. Wood frames will have the least tension as they flex, bend or warp over time. The wood also will bow under higher tensions where a metal screen will not. Therefore a metal screen of 20 Newtons tension is great. It will last a long time with proper care during the screen making processes.

If the guy who did the screens is stretching wood frames and he’s using staples and frame adhesives that’s a sign that it’s not correct. He should be able to get 20 Newtons on the stretcher but it probably will be lower than that by the time you use it. If the mesh were attached properly to the frame only staples and staple tape or frame adhesives would be used. Not both.

I looked up flection to be sure of what they were talking about but as I thought it doesn’t seem to make much sense except in that maybe you use “flection” in the wrists when printing.

http://www.thefreedictionary.com/flection

I don’t know. What they were talking about. Maybe they meant ink shear. Who knows? The bottom line is I don’t think I would get my screens done there. If there’s no big price difference to sending them out, I would do that. Your screen is very important. In many ways it’s an extension of the press which is a machine. A machine that is precise and even delicate. If the screens are not properly made you will have a more difficult time on press.

[Leadfoot]

I mostly purchase wood screens, should have specified. There was such a huge difference in the screen tensions between the online company and the local re-mesh. I would tend to believe the company I buy new screens from, they are a popular company, GM Graphics.

The re-meshed screens from the local guy had so much give to them when you pushed on the screen. I was able to pull off decent prints (A lot of the Anomaly stuff I did posted in the Rhino Tech forum were done with those). However, I think my prints likely could have been a little better. When I printed with them, I had to set the off contact at least twice what I normally do to make up for the amount the screen went down to the pallet. Make sense?

The new screens have just enough give or flex where I can easily push the squeegee with my normal off contact which is right around 1/8". GM does offer re-meshing service but the shipping for a box of 6 frames costs about $30, so it ends up being more than a new screen or close to it. I was just trying to do my part by recycling frames...maybe it is more cost effective doing a dozen or better at a time, not sure. Maybe not with UPS rates being high for oversized boxes. Or just keep buying new ones and figure out what to do with them when they are worn out or I accidentally ruin the mesh, lol.

I am open to ideas of what to do with old frames.

Thanks for the honest opinion Jonathan!

[Leadfoot]

At this point I just don't see the benefit of re-meshing. I really do not save any money sending them back with them offering free shipping on orders right now. I think I might save maybe $0.50 or something but not enough to make it worth the time. Guess I will just keep buying new ones. Thanks as always for the advice.

[Catspit Productions]

You know, I would have to agree with you at that. Saving 50 cents for all the time and effort is not a big incentive.

Right now you can get the pre-stretched screens so cheap it’s the most economical solution. I know it’s not environmental but you can at least collect all the ruined screen frames over time and get cash back on the metal

My pleasure to try to help out where I can.

[ApeShirt]

And if you use wood frames you can take them camping and save on the cost of firewood

[Leadfoot]

Haha that's what I was thinking Greg...I can take them to my next paintball game that is a bit colder at night and we can use them for firewood. lol