I am uploading pics of my results so you can see exactly what I was trying to accomplish and the issues involved. I did not upload the pics showing the empty baked receiver sheet but I will say that whatever toner had been on that sheet transferred totally to the screen and left a blank white sheet at pull off time. These are in no particular order and are not captioned.

Based on what you have shown I would say that there is not a good quality laying of toner for the product to work as designed. The only times I have issues with a lot of areas with no toner was due to a spot on my heat press top where something got on it preventing it from heating up all the way or an uneven marrying of the two sheets. That is me and my heat press not the product itself. All I ever have are pinholes which you will likely have with an emulsion when I do get it right.

Just to give you an example, I did a run of 40 shirts each had to be printed/flashed/printed...so that is 80 passes through the screen with plastisol ink. My stencil could have taken another 40 shirt run plus some. Plus I have other stencils I have ran 10-20 shirts through, cleaned it and did another 10-20 shirt run with zero stencil problems. So I am convinced that the toner being laid on the printed sheet is not good enough whether it is the quality of the toner/printer and/or the settings being used. One other thing is the cleaning/degreasing of the screen...what did you do prior to heat pressing the married sheet to the screen?

Thanks for the help and the opinions based on your experience with the product. I may have overlooked mentioning that the laser stencil method was used on 3 screens. One was admittedly a virgin screen out of the box no mesh prep, the other two had been used with traditional emulsion and reclaimed and dried. These were not placed through a degreasing step prior to being heat pressed. So, there are some variables that I didnt control, or for lack thereof, led to a failure perhaps.

When I was starting out and having some issues one of the questions Chris at RT asked was if I degreased the screen. You wouldn't think it would make a big difference but I guess it can just maybe not as big of a deal as with emulsion where it is a must. I am still leaning toward not enough of a toner deposit onto the paper. I would definitely bring your results to RT and see what they say.

We're here to help! ~g

I can't wait to give the method another try with the HP5000 now that I am aware that the test I gave it might not have been on the highesst toner setting. In fact, I am looking forward to trying it tomorrow again as this mixed halftone job really needs to get out of here. I'll let you know. I still see ghosted toner on the screens from the last test, but it doesnt seem to be plugging the holes. Peace...

OffsetnScreen wrote:I can't wait to give the method another try with the HP5000 now that I am aware that the test I gave it might not have been on the highesst toner setting. In fact, I am looking forward to trying it tomorrow again as this mixed halftone job really needs to get out of here. I'll let you know. I still see ghosted toner on the screens from the last test, but it doesnt seem to be plugging the holes. Peace...

Be sure to post pics! RhinoTech's 2900 Haze Remover works great on reclaiming screens and getting them clear.

I just started using this product and have gotten a few screens that are usable but am having a problem with the toner lifting off in the marrying stage. it has been mostly in areas that I can tape off so not too big of a deal but would love for this not to happen... also, sometimes the toner bubbles up?? I have tried pressing at 225 for 20 seconds and the adhesive never transferred so at 250 for 25 seconds, it seems to be working... but the toner lifting off, i wonder if its getting too hot or not hot enough?? Also, I just attempted to heat press the image onto a 200 mesh count screen and am getting left over adhesive transferring to the screen? Any advice? Any tips would be super helpful!
Thanks!
Sara

Sara,

Sorry to hear of your difficulties. Although, I believe that you have discussed this with our Tech Support, I still wanted to address it in the Forum. First, we have found that the type of laser printer, toner and fuser used are critical for best results. In our testing, we've found that that the OKI printers offer consistent results. And, the mesh count shouldn’t be an issue. Generally, the 200 mesh count bonds very well.

Also, would appreciate you forwarding some photos of the issues you’ve encountered at info@rhinotechinc.com. That will also help us to help you resolve issues if they are continuing. We want you to be successful so look forward to connecting with you. ~Greg

RhinoTech's 2900 Haze Remover never let me down.