Using clear plastisol

[whiteyg]

Anybody use the clear plastisol? Tried it today but didn't have the screen I really wanted so I order some new screens today. Printed one of the screens I had on press a 156, figured the screem was too small for the clear to come through properly but still got some nice prints using a PFPFP. The first one was clear only on a black shirt, not bad, but not that good either. I think if I use a larger opening say 83 the deposit would be more and the effect would have been better.
The second one I added a little light gray ink same PFPFP and much better the design is clearly visible, it looks as if the ink came through better than the clear which I don't think happened but it looks that way.

Question, when using the clear are there any concerns about the curing I should be aware of? Does the clear cure at the same temp/time as normal plastisol? I am currently curing my ink with my 18x18 flash dryer.

I also mixed some red and yellow to try my hand at orange, then mixed in cureable reducer. The mix was 104 g of red 47 g of yellow and 75 g of reducer, my intent was to get a mutted orange design for a background and then put another design of (regular plastiso) on top of that. Didn't like the mutted color, so I flashed it, printed it again and flashed that and printed again, got a orange with what looks like has glitter in it. Will try to get some pictures on here of the two shirts.
This was also done on the 156 screeen which was fine the ink was quite then from the reducer and I was wondering if the large amount of reducer might have given me the glittery look.

Thanks

[Catspit Productions]

Very interesting indeed. I don’t recall ever using clear plastisol ink to print with as you have described here. I always used curable reducer or soft hand base to do this type of effect.

I’ve used those additives to print directly onto say a royal blue shirt to create a secondary royal blue tone in the image. It’s a great way to add a low profile background design or expand color ranges without using any color. Thinned out gray inks can work for this as well.

But I would guess it must be the combination of the clear ink and the reducer that gave it a shiny speckled look even though it has no glitter. Now it is very possible that this sheen will be lost during washing. Or it may actually be permanent due to the inks you mixed together.

We’d love to see some images of this so we all could learn more about what you are doing and what effects you are getting.

I think I feel a video in the works...

[whiteyg]

Here are some pictures of the shirts, they have not be washed yet, they are Gildan Ultra Cotton 6.1 oz.

Like I said 156 screen, 1/8" off contact, 70 duo squeege PFPFP, and cured under and 18 x 18 flash dryer. The flashes were for about 5-7 seconds just enoungh that no ink on the finger tip. The cure was about 45 seconds,
30 seconds (around 350-365 degrees) then swing it out for say 5 seconds and then back under for another 15 seconds (350 degrees). Not sure if I need to swing it out after 30 seconds just trying not to scorch the shirts. The flash dryer is 4 1/2" above the ceramic tile platen I use to cure on. The flashes are 1 1/2" above the platen on the press. Tried to get a couple up close so you can see the ink and all, it diffently has a texture to it, this is not a smooth print but that is not what I was after anyway. I wanted something you can feel, just ended up with a different feel, oh well.

See I even learned something new, File size for pictures is 256 kb max. and 3 attachments is the maximum. The fourth was a close up of the nose.

Not sure about the place inline button under the file names, so I hope these come through, let me know if they don't, heck let me know if they do.

[Catspit Productions]

LOL, I know I’m still learning how to use the forum myself. Here is a great post by Shamax that explains the inline thing with pictures:

http://www.catspitproductionsllc.com/fo ... =35&t=2202

Anyway, thanks for posting some pictures. If the ink has no glitter then the sparkle that you see must be a sheen from the clear and reducer “additives.” I call them additives because you have some color there so it has to be a shiny print surface that is sparkly looking due to the texture of the shirt.

It seems like the gray print has so much reducer it’s printing like reducer rather than an ink. It will flow better if there is more ink base than additives. If the clear plastisol ink is an ink it too should flow decently through the mesh but adding too much reducer will affect an ink’s flow characteristics through the mesh. The red print seems to have a lot of clear in it perhaps.

I think most “clear inks” are meant to be printed over another color that has already been printed and flashed. It gives shiny look to the print that will last. It can also give a raised effect if printed in high density. So most often it is printed on top of another printed color ink I do believe.

But if it is a sheen then it may wash out. It might lose any shiny look after washing. If you want to print a translucent color you can try using a soft hand base and adding an ink color to that so you have basically all ink even though there is little pigment.

That’s my take on this.

[whiteyg]

The gray shirt is only Light gray ink and clear (no reducer) and not alot just dipped the edge of the squeege in ink on another screen and mixed it on screen and printed. Now the Orange is has reducer (amounts shown in previous post).

Got my 86 mesh screens and will try the clear again in one of them, I am actually wanting a tonal change in color, using the clear. Ordered some metallic ink and will try adding a little of it into the clear. Maybe a clear only, then clear and metallic, and clear only on top. Worth a try!!

Is soft hand base different that the additive?

Larry

[Catspit Productions]

That’s interesting because the gray looked like it didn’t flow well due to the coverage. But maybe it was the mesh. I don’t know what the deal is. I suppose 175 grams of ink or so and 75 grams of reducer should be okay if the ink is decent. It really looked like there could be more and I thought you said you added some clear. Sorry I answer a lot of questions daily... LOL.

But if not, then I’m not sure why the gray looks as it does and what the sheen is from unless they are getting over heated during curing. Sometimes when you over heat plastisol inks you can get a shiny finish to them but most of the time that will dull after washing in my experience. But you know 365 F shouldn't be that hot I would think. I tend to run my oven on the hot side with no issues.

So if it’s not the reducer or clear causing the sheen or sparkle then maybe it could be the heat. You got me here. I can only guess at this point. I think using a more open mesh count is a good idea too. Perhaps the 156 mesh gave bad coverage for you on the gray which is possible depending on how thick the ink is. With reducer it should be alittle thinner.

And the clear should cure at the same temp range as a standard plastisol ink if it is sold as a clear ink or clear gloss ink. But you would have to check with the maker to be sure.

Maybe someone else can add to this if they see they have had similar experiences. I'm not sure I'm helping much...