nswpr wrote:Nice job Leadfoot,

Question what is the brand of that Lime Green Color that you used in the first and last image ?

It is Plastisol ? Did you use white under base ?

Thanks in advance!

Thanks! It is Excalibur 550 Fluorescent Green plastisol, a high opacity version so no white underbase. I have never done a white underbase, the Excalibur 550 inks are awesome on black apparel!

graphixphanatix wrote:@LeadFoot

Have you had any problems with the toner not adhering to the screen or the adhesive transferring to the screen in the areas that don't have any toner.
What about when separating the two sheets the toner peels off?

I've purchased 2 10 packs and I'm down to about 2 sheets left. I haven't been able to get one decent transfer yet. I like the idea of it but I can't get it work.

I sometimes have spots where the "adhesive" doesn't marry to the toner sheet so I just carefully put it back and heat press it a little longer. I have never had a problem with that final stage pressing onto the screen. You need to have a lot of pressure when you are heat pressing these in both stages. I have mine at the highest tension I am able to press it down with which seems to work fine with every now and then having an adhesive issue.

Be sure to get in contact with Chris at RhinoTech, he will do all he can to help you with your problem. Feel free to ask me any questions too.

Leadfoot wrote:

nswpr wrote:Nice job Leadfoot,

Question what is the brand of that Lime Green Color that you used in the first and last image ?

It is Plastisol ? Did you use white under base ?

Thanks in advance!

Thanks! It is Excalibur 550 Fluorescent Green plastisol, a high opacity version so no white underbase. I have never done a white underbase, the Excalibur 550 inks are awesome on black apparel!

Thanks for share that with us!

Thanks! It is Excalibur 550 Fluorescent Green plastisol, a high opacity version so no white underbase. I have never done a white underbase, the Excalibur 550 inks are awesome on black apparel!

Wow excellent printings! and that Fluorescent Green looks amazing!congrats!

I print on 100% cotton shirts.
Have you used water based ink?
How does it hold up?
Do you use a software like Photoshop for marking the registration?
Can you print fine detail with a laser printer like you can using an Epson 1400 inkjet, Photoshop, and AccuRip software?
What do you use to block out the screen?
Thanks.

This method, I too, can't wait to try. It certainly is an ecological no brainer. Leadfoot, you do nice work man, thanks for posting those samples of your work. This method, as I have read in the posts, is to this industry as the polyester plate was to the offset industry. I have yet to read anyone's posts concerning reclaiming of a screen prepared in this method. Maybe I missed the video. I am guessing solvents. Anyone?

Actually I have done that part of the process and all you need is a pressure washer to remove the stencil. No chemicals needed at all. You may want to use a haze remover to get rid of some toner staining in the mesh but a good working pressure washer will remove the stencil without any chemicals.

Maybe Chrissi could add more on that as I'm sure she has done it more than I have.

flrider02 wrote:I print on 100% cotton shirts.
Have you used water based ink?
How does it hold up?
Do you use a software like Photoshop for marking the registration?
Can you print fine detail with a laser printer like you can using an Epson 1400 inkjet, Photoshop, and AccuRip software?
What do you use to block out the screen?
Thanks.

I have not used water based inks since I switched to the dry stencil method but I do not believe there is a problem using them with it.

The stencil actually holds up pretty well. Now I mostly do smaller runs, most so far has been 50 and that stencil has held up fine for a 50 piece run in one color. I plan to try to use the same stencil this weekend on another 50 piece run. The only thing I see that actually degrades the stencil is any kind of press wash, even the RhinoTech PWG122. it is a great press wash but I have to be careful when cleaning off the stencil with it.

I have been able to get some pretty fine lines with it, and text down to about a 6 point font and read clearly. it is all about the dpi, you MUST use highly detailed 300dpi minimum images. With those I have gotten some awesome detail.

I use clear Scotch Packing tape to block most of the screen. i also use RhinoTechs RB203 for pinholes and such.

OffsetnScreen wrote:This method, I too, can't wait to try. It certainly is an ecological no brainer. Leadfoot, you do nice work man, thanks for posting those samples of your work. This method, as I have read in the posts, is to this industry as the polyester plate was to the offset industry. I have yet to read anyone's posts concerning reclaiming of a screen prepared in this method. Maybe I missed the video. I am guessing solvents. Anyone?

I pretty much just use a pressure washer to reclaim but sometimes use RhinoTech's HR2400 to help loosen it up a little, HR2800 if some parts are a bit pesky and of course either to remove any ghosting. But most of it usually comes out just with the pressure washer, might need to spray it and let the material soak for a few minutes but I have had very little problems with reclaiming screens with this system. And the time it takes to make the screens for a job is a dream vs emulsion method, and a lot less messy!

Again, nice job Leadfoot! Vibrant is good!