This is the section concerning all things that relate to printing on press. Topics may include but are not limited to loading the pallets, screen set up, registration problems, squeegee durometer, how to screen print using an automatic, manual rotary press or fixed station presses and general trouble shooting on any print job.
The best way to cure a t shirt is to use either a flash cure unit or a belt dryer in the process, but what about other options? Personally I´m using a heat gun (with 500°C) to flash and hit, and a heat press to get my job done, but I´m getting into trouble when flashing and hitting 3 times in order toget a nice opaque white over a dark colored t shirt for example and then applying other colors, cause when I put the t shirt into the heat press (155°C for 30 to 40 secs) the white would "appear" through the color that I printed at last, or worst it gets glued to the iron heat press plate I´m about to buy 10 t shirts this weekend to do some tests trying diferents combinations between Temperature and time, I´m not using plastisol yet, here it´s more common to use a paint a little bit like plastisol, called Caltex, 64T or 90T wooden made frame meshes and 65-70 squeegees. Any suggestions or comments?
Very interesting indeed. So your ink is like a plastisol but perhaps somehow a little different. If I understand correctly you use the heat gun on press to dry everything to the touch and then you are using a heat press to get the final cure, yes?
If that is the case then the only thing I can think of would be to use a Teflon sheet between the shirt and the heat press heating element. Otherwise moving up to a flash cure unit would help and using good quality screen printing ink will also help.
You are also using a pretty high mesh count; perhaps using a 55T mesh for the white under base and then use a 49T or 43T for the colors on top. This will lay more ink down on the shirt however. 65 to 70 durometer squeegees should work fine with these mesh counts. If you have some detail in your design use a 70 durometer squeegee.
I hope that helps out but I do not use the same process you use understand. I have a flash cure unit and a belt dryer. So these are suggestions based on my experience printing over the years. I hope it helps you out in some way.
Good luck and let us know how you make out.
Jonathan Monaco
Catspit Productions, LLC
Learn how to screen print tee shirts!
Yes, indeed that kind of heat press like the one we have it´s like the common in the market, the cheapest jejeje and it came with the teflon sheet you talk about, but we realized that it´s ocurring when not giving the correct time, I mean we managed to give the curing process like 10 secs more it( the t shirt print) stoped to get glued to the heat press plate.
About the mesh count I think because of the different scales meassure between US and Mex there is a confusion, let me investigate what 64 and 90 mesh count is for yours, I´m not really sure but I see from the seller website that they are 64 Hil/Mic "Hilos sobre micras" (I think the translation would be threads over microns but not sure)
Maybe someone over here could help jejeje I not like a math geek anyway jejeje
By the way Jon, you have told you started printing a long time ago with an uncle, the question is, did you always have a belt dryer and cure units as part of the shop hardware you were in?
Well like I said, I have never used a heat press for the final cure so I may have to investigate this as an experimental video or something.
No back when I was printing shirts with my Uncle at age 11 we were using water based inks and heat setting them with a flash cure unit. He was a fine artist, naturist and environmentalist. He probably wouldn’t approve of my shop standards much.... LOL
Jonathan Monaco
Catspit Productions, LLC
Learn how to screen print tee shirts!
ppdlao wrote:Yes, indeed that kind of heat press like the one we have it´s like the common in the market, the cheapest jejeje and it came with the teflon sheet you talk about, but we realized that it´s ocurring when not giving the correct time, I mean we managed to give the curing process like 10 secs more it( the t shirt print) stoped to get glued to the heat press plate.
About the mesh count I think because of the different scales meassure between US and Mex there is a confusion, let me investigate what 64 and 90 mesh count is for yours, I´m not really sure but I see from the seller website that they are 64 Hil/Mic "Hilos sobre micras" (I think the translation would be threads over microns but not sure)
Maybe someone over here could help jejeje I not like a math geek anyway jejeje
Thnks Jon, as always!
Yes, mesh over microns would refer to the mesh count, threads per inch, and the thread diameter in microns.
For instance a 110 mesh with 80 micron threads will have basically the same ink flow as a 125 mesh with 70 micron threads.
Jonathan Monaco
Catspit Productions, LLC
Learn how to screen print tee shirts!
ppdlao wrote:jejeje I know!!! I should and believe I´m exploring the CATSPIT Website, there´s as you said, tons of info, and tnks for the link, now it´s cristal!
Thnks buddy!
I'm glad that article helped out!
Jonathan Monaco
Catspit Productions, LLC
Learn how to screen print tee shirts!
So I want to start screen printing at home, and I am trying to figure out what would be the best heating/curing unit to get.
I think I will be using plastisol mostly, but I would also like to use water-based for some designs.
Is there a unit I can use for both plastisol and water-based inks?
Also, is there a difference between flashing and curing?
I know there are flash dryers (uv rays?), air-flash dryers, and conveyer dryers.
I dont want to spend a ton of money on equipment that isnt going to work for me. I'm not sure how many amps my breaker is, but I'm looking at 110, 120 volts.
Until then, will a heat gun cure water-based inks well enough to be washed?
I´m about to buy 10 t shirts this weekend to do some tests trying diferents combinations between Temperature and time, I´m not using plastisol yet, here it´s more common to use a paint a little bit like plastisol, called Caltex, 64T or 90T wooden made frame meshes and 65-70 squeegees. Any suggestions or comments?
