Dry Stencil Problem

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graphixphanatix
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Dry Stencil Problem

Post by graphixphanatix »

I purchased the Dry Stencil and Ive printed out the image. BTW I'm using a Brother 2270. After pressing @ 250 for 25 sec with HIGH PRESSURE, the toner isn't adhering to the transfer paper. Anyone have any idea why? Could it be a bad batch of paper? :cry:
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Leadfoot
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Re: Dry Stencil Problem

Post by Leadfoot »

first question, no insult intended, did you print the design onto the correct paper? If so, when you were heat pressing the two sheets at 250 for 25 secs they are not marrying at all?
graphixphanatix
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Re: Dry Stencil Problem

Post by graphixphanatix »

After speaking with Chris from Rhinotech I figured out that the toner doesn't transfer to to transfer paper. What actually happens is the transfer paper releases a Bond that adheres to the toner allowing it to be pressed into screen.

Now I've run into another issue. Once i press the transfer, I have pin holes all over the place and I I don't know why. The image looks solid before I press it.
RhinoTech
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Re: Dry Stencil Problem

Post by RhinoTech »

Sorry you're having issues. Can you please call Chris @ 651-686-5027 x 4 or provide me w/your email that I can pass on to him?

`shell
OffsetnScreen
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Re: Dry Stencil Problem

Post by OffsetnScreen »

I am getting mixed results. I'm using the HP Laserjet 5000,Postscript monochrome printer with heat settings set to highest, media to vellum, 1200dpi, OEM High Yield 29x cartridge. Monitoring my variables with a laser temp gun, I used 2 different pressure settings for the heat press and found as I think read in an earlier post, the lighter pressure AND placing the adhesive(receiver) sheet on the bottom gave me better imaging results. I couldnt help but think of Jonathan saying "Rip it off like a band-aid", so I did, lol. I had to McGuyver a registration system of some sort, for proper image placement onto the screen. I then increased the temp and pressure of the heat press to recommended levels. I cooked the image, for 30 seconds and released the pressure, removed it and set it in an air conditioned room for a half hour...It had reached ambient temp by then, I peeled the backing off slowly and from the corners to the center so as not to stress the image. It looked good and dense.
>>Now I've gone back and watched the 2 videos on the dry stencil method a second time and noticed that it is mentioned briefly in passing about properly blocking the screen at this point. There is mention of a Rhynoblock product but no application instructions.
The issue I had was that after pushing ink through the screen no more than 5 or 6 passes could be made before holes and fleks of toner would come off of the screen and allow seepage. During a washout, the toner that did adhere, was a bit of a chore using water alone.
Does the RhinoBlock product prevent the issue that is ocuring? Is there a special mesh pre-prep step for these images? Thanks in advance
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Catspit Productions
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Re: Dry Stencil Problem

Post by Catspit Productions »

The bottom line unfortunately is the best results will be with the Oki Data printers that the paper was designed on. I was able to get it to work with an HP color laser printer but not with my Samsung black toner only laser printer. So the laser printer used I think has a lot to do with the success of this product.

The newer and the best condition laser printers will work best. Older printers that are not functioning at 100% may not work as well as a brand new one. Having a dedicated laser printer for this process may also be a good idea.

But I would totally call Chris at RhinoTech and he will be able to help if it is possible at all. Again it could come down to the laser printer.

From the RhinoTech website, “For the BEST results use an OKI Data laser printer, Xanta laser printer or Brother Mono laser printer.”
Jonathan Monaco
Catspit Productions, LLC
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OffsetnScreen
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Re: Dry Stencil Problem

Post by OffsetnScreen »

That is the recommended printer, I agree. I looked at the "Xante"(Incorrectly spelled on the Rhinotech site) printers in the past. They pushed them to the printing industry for polyester platemaking for their high heat capabilities. They also are capable of handling a 12 x 18 sheet, however, what turned me off on their product was the fact that they had proprietary memory sticks and a proprietary hard drive. No standard "off the shelf" memory was available , nor an "off the shelf" hard drive. The toner is transferring from carrier to receiver, and to the screen, but its not staying on the screen during printing operations.
OffsetnScreen
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Re: Dry Stencil Problem

Post by OffsetnScreen »

Do you know of any data available to form a comparison between the Oki GO Uno and the HP 5000 and Xante, that will show fuser roller pressures or thicknesses of toner layer or fuser temps to difinitively discern whether or not it is the printer to blame for my poor results or whether it is a mesh prep issue? I will add that I found an old bottle of something called red coat and attempted to block out holes and voids on the shirt side of the screen with a small brush. I let it air dry thoroughly onto the screen where after only a few strokes, it too began to release from the screen exposing the toner void. I am not sure if it was due to the fact that the red coat was old, or if this is another indication of bad mesh prep. I have taken photos, but am not sure which part of the forum to post them to. Please advise.
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Leadfoot
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Re: Dry Stencil Problem

Post by Leadfoot »

All of my experience has been with the GoUNO laser printer and from what I understand it is imperative to use a recommended printer to be able to get a proper layer of toner onto the paper. Some laser printers will not lay enough down for the process to work properly. RhinoTech will definitely have to chime in on this one because I cannot help with this part. As I have stated before, it is very important to follow the instructions to the letter which includes using the proper equipment. if any one of these is not used properly it will likely not work right.
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Catspit Productions
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Re: Dry Stencil Problem

Post by Catspit Productions »

I would agree with Leadfoot on this.

Offsetscreen,

Feel free to post you images here since this is all about the dry stencil system.

As for your questions I do not know about those technical comparisons. We will have to ask RhinoTech. Actually give Chris a call and speak with him. He will be able to help you best. His number is above in this thread.

I don’t believe I have used this red coat stuff. Is it a block out? Maybe it is light sensitive?
Jonathan Monaco
Catspit Productions, LLC
Learn how to screen print tee shirts!

http://catspitscreenprintsupply.com/
http://www.youtube.com/user/CatspitProductions
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